Squeezing into the courtyard of Domaine Hering right on the narrow main street of Barr at the northern end of the Route des Vins is a ticklish business. “Pour les vendanges,” admits Fabienne Hering rufeully, “c’est un peu rock-and-roll!”. If it’s hard to navigate with a car, I can’t imagine what it must be like at harvest time, with tractors and trailers jostling for position.
The family has made wine here since 1858, and the 10-hectare domaine is owned and run today by Jean-Daniel together with his wife Fabienne. It’s well worth a visit when you’re up in these northern parts (Strasbourg is only about 15 minutes away). They make delicious, smiling wines (around 70,000 bottles p.a.) and sell them – online or in the beautiful panelled boutique – at prices fit to restore your faith in humankind (entry-level wines around €6, Grands Crus not much over €14). They belong to Tyflo, a kind of organic-lite organisation created in Alsace in the ’90s whose members work according to sustainable agricultural practices.
If you have time, take a stroll through the Grand Cru Kirchberg vineyard that rises just up behind the house. From the trail, which is well signposted, you get heavenly views of the town and the surrounding countryside, not to mention an up-close-and personal perspective of the vines – lovely in spring when buds are about to break, or a little later when in bloom (vine flowers have a delicate, elusive, kind of elderflowerish smell), or in autumn when the foliage is burnished yellow/copper/red and the rows of vines are a hive of activity.
6 Rue du Docteur Sultzer
Tel. 03 88 08 90 07
Open Monday to Friday 9h30 – 12h and 13h30 – 18h30
Saturdays 9h30 – 12h and 13h30 – 18h00
Sundays 9h30 – 11h30 or by appointment