The last time I visited the Auberge Frankenbourg was in 2006, a year after they received their first Michelin star. Since then, this family-owned country inn just up into the Vosges from Sélestat has kept everyone (staff and customers) on their toes, piling innovation upon renovation. First, the familiar, homely salle à manger gave ground to a striking, purpose-built dining room: picture a cross between a chalet, a chapel and an elegant barn, with soaring roof, a whole timber yard of beams and huge windows giving glimpses out onto the forest. Then they smartened up the rooms – but not too much. Frankenbourg is a Logis de France and still very much a restaurant avec chambres, where the spotlight shines relentlessly on the food, not on the beds or bathrooms (which are simple but adequate). Most recently chef Sébastien Buecher and his team gave themselves a spanking new kitchen, designed to make their demanding job simpler and more pleasurable. It’s been an extraordinary series of transformations, which has left everyone slightly dazed but happy – the clients for sure, but also the staff. (You can be pretty sure they’re happy because they all beam at you when they pass by your table, even if they’re not your allotted waiter/waitress.)
My definition of an absolute no-no includes descending on winegrowers slap-bang in the middle of harvest. They’re commuting between the vineyards and the cellar, picking (and tasting) grapes, checking up on the health of the grapes, peering into refractometers to measure the potential alcohol of the wine, supervising tractorloads of deliveries, sorting, selecting, fermenting, pressing… This is soooooo not the moment to propose a visit.
So how come last week I broke my own self-imposed rule? I had a couple of people from the States sign up for a vineyard tour, and these were the only dates they could do. I hate to miss the chance to share the latest excitements in our little wine world (ça bouge en Alsace!), so I agreed – but warned them we might not be able to see all my favourite people (FPs), for all the reasons outlined above.